Crochet Face Pads

 

As you know, here at the Crafty Co we love making things that can be recycled. More and more of us our replacing day to day disposable items with ones that can be used again and again.

These cute face pads are a perfect example. Made out of cotton yarn, they replace make-up pads, reducing waste, and as they are reusable will save you loads of money too.

They are super quick and easy to make and suitable for all levels.

Here’s what you need

Cotton yarn/wool – Each pad takes approx 10g and the bags approx 50g

Crochet hooks – we used a 5mm & an 6mm (6mm is optional )

Wool darning needle – to sew in ends

scissors

The tutorial is in UK crochet terms and double strand is used throughout.

Stitches
  • stitch = stitch
  • yo = yarn over
  • chain = chain (yo, pull through)
  • slip stitch = slip stitch (insert hook, yo, pull through both loops)
  • half treble =  (yo, insert hook, yo pull through, yo pull through all 3 loops
  • treble = treble (yo, insert hook, yo pull through, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through both loops

Heres what you do

We used double strand throughout to make our pads stiffer and more dense.

Using a 5mm hook, make a magic ring. If you haven’t yet mastered the magic ring, don’t worry, you can make the centre circle by working 4 or 5 chains and slip stitching into the first chain to close and make the circle. If you do use this method, you may be left with a hole in the centre of your pad. You can then choose to leave the hole or sew it closed.

Work a 3 chain, this will count as the 1st treble of the round.

Work a further 11 trebles into the magic ring or circle. To close the round, work a slip stitch into the 3rd stitch of the 3 chain you worked at the beginning. (12sts)

Pull the starting strand tight to close the centre hole.

To start the next round, chain 3. This will count as your 1st treble. We now need to increase into each of the stitches from the previous round. The first increase is worked into the same stitch that the 3 chain was created from. The picture below indicates the positioning of this stitch. The 3 chain will be disguised once this increase has been made.

The sequence for this round is 2 treble into each of the remaining 11 stitches from the 1st round.

To close the round, slip stitch into the centre of the first increase worked at the beginning.

This round is now complete.  So that the pad lays flat, we will increase 12 stitches in the next round.

Work a 3 chain that will count as the 1st treble in this round.

Again we want to disguise the 3 chain so the 1st increase of the round is worked into the same stitch the 3 chain was created from.

We have 24 stitches from the previous round and we need to increase 12 for this round. To do this, we will work an increase in every other stitch. As we have already worked an increase at the beginning, we work 1 tr into the next stitch.

Then we will increase by working 2 trebles into the next stitch.

Then continue the sequence by working 1 treble into the next.

Continue around the round, increasing in every other stitch. The diagram below shows you the sequence.

You will finish the round on a 1 treble. To close, work a slip stitch into the centre of the first increase at the beginning. (36sts)

Cut off the yarn and pull through. Sew in this and the centre end securely.

Your face pad is now complete.

Make as many as you want. A set or 4 or six make a fab present.

So that the pads don’t get lost in the wash, it’s a good idea to make them a bag.

If you are making them as a gift, it’s a fab way to present them to the recipient. If you prefer to have a floppier bag, you can work with a single strand.  You may need to adjust the number of stitches. We have used a larger hook for our bag, but again the choice is yours

Using double strand and a 6mm hook, work a chain. We will be working back along the chain before joining it to form a round. This makes it easier to size the bag, so that it fits the pads. Our bag needs to fit four pads, so to start we worked a chain of 26.

To create the bottom of the bag, we will work back along the chain to the desired length. Not including the stitch on the hook, miss a stitch and work a half treble in the 2nd stitch from the hook. The stitch we have just made counts as the first stitch of the row. Work 1 treble in each stitch back along the chain so that you have an even number of stitches in total. The bottom of the bag is a bit of trial and error. You may find that you need to redo this row a few times until you find you are happy with the size. A top tip is to make the chain longer than you need as you can unpick the end once your row has been worked.

To check the size, wrap this row around your scrubbies. To get a snug fit the start and end of this row shouldn’t quite join up.

Once you are happy with the length and have worked an even number of stitches. (Remember missing the stitches at the beginning do not count as the 1st stitch for this row.) join with a slip stitch into the gap before the 1st stitch. Before joining, check that your row isn’t twisted.

You can see below that the slip stitch was worked into the gap before the 1st stitch of the row.

The bag is worked in rows of v stitches. Once you have completed this first row, you will find the following rows easier as the V stitches are easy to spot. Work a 4 chain. This will count as the 1st treble of the round and a 1 chain.

Work one more treble into the same space that the 4 chain was created. This will form the first V of the round.

Then it’s just a case of working V stitches all the way around the round. To do this you will work the V stitch in every other stitch from the previous round. So skip the next stitch, then (V stitch = 1treble, 1chain, 1treble) into the next space. Skip a stitch, then V stitch, skip a stitch, then V stitch and so on until you get back to the beginning.

You will see that once you have completed the last v stitch, you will have one space left. This is correct as there should be a space between each of the V stitches. Close the round by working a slip stitch in the centre of the 1st V stitch you created at the beginning.

The foundation round of V stitches in complete. The V stitches for the following rounds are worked into each of these foundation V’s.

To start this and the following rounds, work a 4 chain. This will count as the 1st treble and 1 chain of the v stitch.

To complete the 1st V stitch work a treble into the same space as the 4 chain.

Work V stitches (1treble, 1chain, 1treble) into all the v stitches from the previous round. Then close the round with a slip stitch into the centre of the 1st v stitch worked at the beginning.

Continue working the V stitch rounds until the bag is the length you want.

Lay your pads on the top to check the size. You can make it any length you want. We chose to have a fairly snug fit with ours.

The next round is optional but it will create a row where the cord is threaded. Work a 3 chain which counts as the 1st treble of this round.

Work a treble into the space to the left of the 3 chain.

To complete this round, work 1 treble into each of the spaces from the previous round. So 1 treble in each v stitch and 1 treble in each of the spaces between the V’s.

You should finish on a space stitch.

Once you get back to the 3 chain worked the beginning, close the round with a slip stitch into the space next to it.

To work the fan stitches at the top of the bag, work 5 trebles into the next space, then skip the next space. This allows space for the fan.

Slip stitch in the stitch next to the one you have just skipped. This anchors the fan and gives it its shape.

Skip the next space and work 5 trebles into the next space.

Skip the next space and slip stitch into the next to anchor the fan.

Continue this sequence all the way round until you get back to the beginning.

Slip stitch into the last space. Cut yarn, pull through and sew in the ends to secure.

Press the bag flat.  Ideally you want the beginning of the rounds (where the 3 chains are) to be at the side. This will hide them and make the bag look much neater.

Over sew the bottom of the bag, lining up the stitches from both sides.

Your bag is now finished, ready for the tie to be made.

You can use whatever hook you prefer for the chord, but we found the smaller hook made it look neater.  Work a chain. Ours was 80 stitches long. Once you have made yours the length you want, cut the yarn and pull through to secure.

We didn’t sew the ends in. We simply cut them, leaving a small length to look like a skinny tassle.

Starting in the centre of your bag, thread the chain in and out of the treble round you created before the fan round. You will get back to the beginning and your bag is now finished.

If you want a simpler bag, work the V stitch rounds until you have your desired length.

To create the mini fans at the top work 3 trebles in each of the V stitches from the previous round. Work slip stitches in the spaces between the V’s. So the sequence for this round is – 3 trebles in v stitch, slip stitch in space, 3 trebles in v stitch, slip stitch in space,  3 trebles in v stitch, slip stitch in space and so on.

The 3 trebles create a mini fan.

The slip stitch pull the stitches down to shape the fan.

When you get back to the beginning, close the round with a slip stitch. Cut yarn, pull through and sew in end to secure.

Create the chain in the same way as above for the blue bag.

This style means you are free to thread the cord through any of the V stitch rows. You can thread in the one below the fan or make a longer bag and thread further down. The great thing is, the choice is yours.

How cute are these? They make wonderful little gifts and as they don’t take long to make you could work up a few sets. That way you have them to hand if you need a quick present for someone. If you fund raise, how about adding soap or cleansing products to make gift sets.

There are so many beautiful colours available in cotton, you will have trouble choosing. One thing to consider is darker colours will need to be washed at a lower temperature. White is always a good choice as they won’t fade and always look fresh.

So next time you’re at your local craft stores pick up a couple of balls and get creating.

We love seeing your creations and makes, so don’t forget to tag us #CraftyCoCreations

Happy crocheting

The Crafty Co

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