Easy Crochet Amigurumi Chick Pattern

Easy crochet amigurumi chick pattern tutorial

This quick and easy amigurumi crochet pattern tutorial is suitable for all levels.

Amigurumi is very popular in the crochet world, although many people still shy away from it believing it is difficult to master.

It really is very easy, but there is one piece of equipment that is a must when first starting out with this form of crochet. It’s only small but essential if you want to overcome the fear – a stitch marker.

As amigurumi is worked in the round, it is easy to lose where you started.

So, by marking your first stitch each time, you can keep track of your rounds. A round or row counter is also a good idea. But, a pen and piece of paper works just as well, so that you can mark off your rounds as you get back to the stitch marker. Then you simply remove it and place it back in the first stitch of the round you are doing. Working continuously means there is no visible transition from one round to the next, making your work neater.

I have written a pattern for a really easy little chick that would make a great first dip into the world of amigurumi.

I personally like to have a close weave on my work, so I use 2 strands of DK wool and a 4mm hook. I also try and keep a tight tension. This means that once the toy has been stuffed, you can’t see the white of the stuffing peeping through.

Let’s get started.

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Wool for the main colour – less than a 50 grams
  • Oddments of wool for beak and feet
  • small amount of black wool for the eyes if sewing them on or  a pair of safety eyes
  • crochet hook
  • scisssors
  • large eye wool darning needle
  • stuffing

and…… most importantly a stitch marker.

The instructions are written in UK terms

Abbreviations 

sts = stitches
ch = chain stitch
dc = UK double crochet
dc2tg = double crochet 2 together
sl st = slip stitch

Head and body – (make 1)

The first round is worked into a magic ring, but if you don’t want use this method, work a 4 or 5 chain and join with a slip sitch in the first stitch.  If you decide to do this, you will need to sew the centre closed, once you have worked the first round.

Magic ring and work a chain stitch to secure

Round 1

work 6dc into the magic ring – do not join the rounds as we will be working continuously (6sts)

Round 2

we need to go from 6sts to 12sts in this round so we work 2dc into each of the 6 sts from the 1st round (12sts) Don’t forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round one and place it in the first stitch of this 2nd round

 

Round 3

you can see that we are increasing 6sts in each round so we need to go from 12sts to 18sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(2dc in next, dc) X 6 = (18sts)

Don’t forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round two and place it in the first stitch of this 3rd round

Round 4

we need to go from 18sts to 24sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(2dc in next, dc, dc) X 6 = (24sts)

Don’t forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round three and place it in the first stitch of this 4th round

Round 5

we need to go from 24sts to 30sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(2dc in next, dc, dc, dc) X 6 = (30sts)

Don’t forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round four and place it in the first stitch of this 5th round

Rounds 6,7,8 & 9

We will now continue with these 30sts for 4 rounds

We will now work down towards the neck as follows

Round 10 -(dc2tg, dc, dc, dc) x 6  (24sts)

Round 11 – (dc2tg, dc, dc) X 6 (18sts)

Not essential but you may find it easier if you add the eyes now, before the hole gets too small.  If you are using wool for the eyes, you can add these once the chick has been made so you can get them even once it has been stuffed

Round 12 – (dc2tg, dc) x 6 (12sts)

Stuff the head so that is nice and firm

Round 13 – work 1 round of 12 dc (12sts) for the neck

 

We now want to increase for the body

Round 14 – work 2dc in each of the 12 sts of round 13 (24sts)

Round 15 – (2dc into next, dc, dc, dc) x 6  (30sts)

Round 16 – (dc, dc, 2dc into next, dc, dc) x 6  (36sts)

Rounds 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22 & 23

work these 7 rounds of 36 dc in each making sure you keep moving your stitch marker placing it in the first stitch of each round

Round 24 – (dc2tg, dc, dc, dc, dc) x 6  (30sts)

Round 25 – (dc2tg, dc, dc, dc) x 6 (24sts)

Round 26 – (dc2tg, dc, dc) x 6  (18sts)

Break off yarn and pull through to secure

 

Stuff the body, you may need to add a bit more to the head too.

We now need to make a base so that our chick will sit and it needs to have the same amount of stitches as the bottom edge of the body (18sts)

Base – (Make 1) Use double strand

Work rounds 1, 2 & 3 as per the body. You will end up with 18sts in the 3rd round. Cut your yarn and pull through to secure, making sure you leave a long enough end to sew the base to the body.

Line up the stitches on the base and body and sew through both loops on each piece. You may need to add a bit more stuffing but don’t overstuff as your chick will fall over
Once you have sewn on the base your chick should be able to stand unaided

We are now ready to give it some wings

Wings (make 2) Use double strand

Magic ring and work a chain stitch to secure

Round 1 – work 6dc into the magic ring – do not join the rounds as we will be working continuously (6sts)

 

Round 2

2dc in next, 2dc in next, dc, dc, dc, dc (8sts)

Round 3

2dc in next, 2dc in next,  2dc in next, 2dc in next, dc, dc, dc, dc (12sts)

Round 4

dc, dc, 2dc in next, 2dc in next,  2dc in next, 2dc in next, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc (16sts)

Rounds 5, 6, & 7

work 16 dc in each round (16sts)

Round 8 – dc2tg 8 times (8sts)

Break off yarn and pull through leaving enough length to sew wing to body

Once you have made both, flatten them to look like the pic below. Mirror them so they match when you attach them.  Sew the opening closed and attach them to the desired position on the body.

Beak – (Make 1) NOTE – USE SINGLE STRAND FOR BEAK

Magic ring and work a chain stitch to secure

Round 1

work 6dc into the magic ring – do not join the rounds as we will be working continuously (6sts)

Round 2

2dc in next, dc, dc, 2dc in next, dc, dc (8sts)

Round 3

work one round of 8dc (8sts) break off yarn and pull through leaving enough length to sew to head

Making sure beak is right side out, sew to head and sew a stitch on the underside to pull the beak into a rounded shape

Feet – Optional (Make 2) Use double strand

Magic ring and work a chain stitch to secure

Round 1

work 6dc into the magic ring – do not join the rounds as we will be working continuously (6sts)

Round 2

work 2dc in each stitch of round 1 (12sts)

Rounds 3, 4 & 5

work 12dc in each round (12sts)

Round 6

dc2tg 6 times (6sts)

Round 7

work 1 round of 6sts, break off yarn and pull through leaving enough length to attach to base

To make up the feet, sew the opening closed. Wrap the yarn along the back of the foot and bring over the front so the yarn is in the middle of the foot. Sew back into the closed opening and pull tight so that it creates two toes.

Turn the chick upside down and sew the feet to the edge of the base. You can position as close or far apart as you wish.
Now turn little chick back up the right way and admire your creation.

 

I hope that you have overcome the fear of Amigurumi, and this is just the start of your adventure.

 

The Crafty Co loves seeing our designs made.  Please tag us so we can see your creations.

Happy Crocheting and have fun

The Crafty Co
x

NOTE – These are not suitable for small children due to small parts

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