Garden Crochet Jute Baubles

Baubles baubles eveywhere.

With space being a premium in our lives, we try and squeeze as much of it as we can out of our homes.

Very often, we overlook a really important space and that is……… the garden.

No longer is it a place to just hang out the washing or store any unwanted clutter.

We have realised that this is a precious space that we need to make the most of.

It should be treated as an extra room and with that in mind, be decorated to show it off.

These gorgeous baubles can be hung all around the garden to add an extra dimension and sparkle.

Using ordinary garden twine, these baubles are anything but ordinary
so grab your supplies and let’s get started

Here’s what you need for the baubles.

JUTE (GARDEN TWINE) – This usually comes in beige or green

BALLS – We used foam balls, but you could use ball pits balls, especially if they are no longer played with

CROCHET HOOK – We used a 5mm

STITCH MARKER

LARGE EYE DARNING NEEDLE

SCISSORS

THICK CARD – To make tassel template

SELECTION OF BEADS – Large hole beads

 

 

The pattern is written in UK terms with the following abbreviations.

st/sts – stitch/stitches

yo – yarn over (place yarn over hook)

sl st – slip stitch (insert hook into space, yo and pull through and pull through loop on hook)

dc – double crochet (insert hook, yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops)

ch – chain (do not insert into work, yo and pull through loop on hook)

 

Tension isn’t important for the baubles.

You may need to change the hook size if you can’t get the diameter right.

As these are so quick to make, you can spend a bit of time with the first bauble making sure you get the best fit for the cover.

Once you have got the sizing right, jot down the hook size and stitch count for future baubles.

 

We used a 5mm hook. If you aren’t used to working with jute, you may want to use a bigger hook.

Ideally you want to use the smallest one that doesn’t make your hands ache.

You will be working in continous rounds and want a nice tight weave to your piece, so that the ball doesn’t show through.

Start with a magic ring and secure it with a one chain. This stops the ring from unravelling and gives the 1st dc something to lay against.

 

 

To create the 1st round work 6dc into the ring.  Insert a stitch marker into the 1st dc.

Once you complete the 1st stitch of EVERY round, place in your stitch marker.

As there is no obvious 1st stitch in each round, stitch markers will keep track of it.

If the door goes or you make a mistake, having the marker in place means you can just unpick back to it and start the round again.

Do not close this or any of the following rounds as we will be working continuously. (6sts)

 

As you can see below, round 1 has a total of 6sts. To complete round 2, work 2dc into each of the 6sts in round 1. (12sts)

 

 

The 2nd round has been completed with a total of 12sts.

 

 

 

To complete round 3, work the following sequence

(2dc into the next st, 1dc) six times to finish this round with a total of 18sts

 

 

 

The 4th round is completed using the following sequence.

(2dc into next st, 1dc, 1dc) six times to finish this round with 24sts.

 

We now need to check the sizing against the ball.

Place your work over the ball. As you look from above you should just be able to see the sides of the ball.

If you see loads of the ball, you may need to work another increase row as follows.

(2dc into next st, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) six times 30sts.

If you need to work any more increase rows, just keep adding add 1 more dc after the increase.

Our work was the right size so we didn’t need to work a further increase and ended up with 24sts in our round.

This part can be trial and error and may take a few goes before you get it right.

You may need to change your hook to get it just how you want it.

 

Once you have got the sizing right, stop increasing. We have 24sts in our rounds so need to work rounds with that amount in. Continue working in rounds until your piece measures just under half the diameter of the ball.

This means the bauble cover will be nice and snug.

We completed two rounds of 24 until we reached the length that covered half the bauble.

 

Once you have reached the desired length, cut the yarn, sl st into the next stitch and pull through to secure.

Weave this end and the centre strand in.

 

You will now have completed one side of the bauble cover

 

Make a 2nd half in exactly the same way, but don’t cut the yarn as we will be using it to join the two halves together.

 

 

Don’t insert the ball just yet as it will be easier to join the two halves.

With wrong sides facing each other, match up the stitches on the last round worked.

Insert your hook through the top of a dc on one half and insert hook on the matching dc on the 2nd half.

yo and pull through all loops.

Continue around the edge joining the two halves with sl sts.

Work to about half way round or just enough so that you can insert the ball comfortably.

 

Insert the ball and continue with sl sts for the remainder of the round.

This is quite tricky but take your time with it.

Once you get back to the beginning of the round, cut off yarn, pull through and sew in the end.

 

You now have completed the jute ball.

You dont have to use them as baubles.

How about making a ten pin bowling set using old plastic bottles. This would make a fab bowling ball.

Or you could stack small boxes or plastic containers up and use these to try and knock them down.

But for this tutorial we will be adding tassels to make hanging baubles.

 

If you don’t have a tassel maker, you can make your own using stiff card.

Decide how long you want your tassels to be. We like to add a tiny bit extra on so that the tassels can be trimmed after.

This means that if you are making lots, you can cut them the same length once you have made them all.

Cut a piece of card so that the height is a fraction more than your chosen tassel length.

We have found that the best card to use is from an old cardboard box.

It was nice and stiff and we found it lasted for ages.

The width of the card doesn’t really matter.

If it’s nice and wide, it is easier to wrap the jute around and it won’t slip off.

 

Now wrap the jute around the card.

The more you wrap it around, the thicker the tassel will be.

Again this part is a bit of trial and error.

If you wrap it around too many times, the tassel will be hard to secure together.

We wrapped it around about 15 times.

As we said, it really doesn’t matter, but bear in mind, if you are making a set, you want them to look similar.

Find a number that gives you the look you want and make a note of it for future reference.

 

So that the strands don’t all fall off the cardboard once cut, thread a piece of jute under the strands on one side and slide it up to the top.

Tie a tight knot. This length of jute should be long enough to add some beads and be able to tie to the bauble.

Once you have secured the top, cut along the strands at the bottom to release them.

 

Hold the tassel together and tie a piece of jute just below the top.

You may need to ask someone to hold it as this is a bit fiddly.

 

Once your tassel is secure you can neaten the bottom off with a pair of scissors.

 

Thread some large holed beads to the strand at the top of the tassel.

You need to thread both the strands through the beads so that they sit on top of the tassel.

 

We now need to attach the tassel to the bauble.

To do this, thread one of the strands through a large eye darning needle and insert into one of the sl sts you worked on the joining round.

Pull it through right to the beads and then tie off with the other strand.

Sew in the two ends back into the bauble so that it doesn’t show and is nice and secure.

 

You now need to add the hanger.

To do this take a piece of jute. This should be a good length so that it can be hung and then trimmed if needed.

Find the sl st that is opposite the tassel and using the large eye darning needle, insert the jute and pull through.

Pull so that the two ends are level and then if you like, add a bead to the top by threading through both strands on the hanger.

 

Ours are hanging in the Crafty Co garden and add interest to our trees.

 

This is a great activity for the kids to help with.

How about making lots of baubles and when it’s a rainy day, get creative, adding tassels and any embellishments you fancy.

 

 

Lots of crafter have all sorts of treasures laying around.

The dark pink and dark green tassels have been added with jewellery making supplies.

They do however look just as fab with childrens plastic or wooden beads.

 

Here at The Crafty Co we love seeing your creations using our tutorials so please tag us so we can admire them.

Now all we need is the sun so we can sit out and admire our work.

Happy Crafting

The Crafty Co

x

 

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