As you know, here at the Crafty Co we love using unconventional tools for our craft. Garden jute is one of our favourites to work with, so you can imagine our delight when we stumbled across this gorgeous blue garden twine.
Jute is not just for tying up plants and using around the garden, oh no…… it is perfect for crochet.
There are many things that you can crochet with it and here is a fab example in the form of hanging garden decorations.
We often forget that our gardens are an extension of our home.
Adding decorations to it, gives it a personal touch and makes it a space you want to spend time in.
Why not add this beautiful garden bunting to yours.
It is quick and easy to make and suitable for all levels.
We found this jute at our local Wilkinsons. At present, it is unavailable online, but you should be able to pick it up in store.
Here’s what you need
Crochet hooks – we used a 10mm & an 8mm (8mm is optional and only used for the tie along the top of the bunting)
Wool darning needle – to sew in ends
thick card – to create a template for the tassels (or an old book)
beads – to add a bit of bling
The bunting is in UK crochet terms
- stitch = stitch
- yo = yarn over
- chain = chain (yo, pull through)
- slip stitch = slip stitch (insert hook, yo, pull through both loops)
- double crochet = insert hook, yo pull through, yo pull through both oops
- treble = treble (yo, insert hook, yo pull through, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through both loops
Heres what you do
We used a couple of balls to make our bunting, which consists of 9 triangles. These were worked with a 10mm hook and for the tie at the top, we used an 8mm. You can use a 10mm if you prefer, the only difference you will see, is the stitches will look more open weave with the larger hook.
We used double strand throughout to make our triangles stiffer and more dense. As tension is not an issue when making the bunting, you can use a single strand and a smaller hook. A 5.5mm or 6mm works great with one strand. This would be good if you want to make your jute go further. You will get lots of triangles out of two balls using a single strand of jute.
We have used a 10mm hook for the triangles. Working with jute is quite hard on the hands, so it’s worth having a play with different size hooks to find the one that is the most comfortable for you and gives you the look you want. Using a much larger hook will give you a more open weave triangle and it will have more fluidity to it. A smaller hook will give you a much more dense look and the triangles will be more rigid. A smaller hook will also be much harder on your hands, so bear that in mind when choosing.
Remember though, for this tutorial we will be using a double strand of jute throughout.
Using a 10mm hook, make a magic ring. If you haven’t yet mastered the magic ring, don’t worry, you can make the centre circle by working 4 or 5 chains and slip stitching into the first chain to close and make the circle. If you do use this method, you make be left with a hole in the centre of your bunting. You can then choose to leave the hole or sew it closed.
Work a 3 chain. This will count as the first treble of your round and be where you will close the round once you have crocheted it.
To create the first side of the triangle, work a further 2 trebles into the magic ring or circle.
To create the 1st corner of the triangle, work a 3 chain.
The 2nd side is made by working 3 trebles into the magic ring or circle.
Work a 3 chain for the 2nd corner.
Work 3 trebles into the magic ring or circle to create the 3rd side of the triangle.
3 chain to make the 3rd and final corner of the triangle.
To close this first round, work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the 3 chain you worked at the beginning of the round.
Holding your starting strand of yarn, pull it tight to close the magic circle.
We now need to get to the corner to start our next round.
Using this method makes it virtually impossible to see the 3 chain that is worked at the beginning and gives a much more professional look to the bunting. To get to the first corner, work slip stitches into the top of the trebles to the left of where your closing slip stitch has been worked. Slip stitch into the first corner and you will now be where you need to be to start the next round.
Work a 3 chain, (this will count as your 1st treble and remember, as we are starting in the corner, will be virtually hidden once we have closed this round)
So that the triangle grows, we need to increase stitches in this round or our work will curl up and not lay flat. We do this by working a corner stitch into the corner spaces from the previous round. Work 2 more trebles into the first corner space.
Work a 3 chain which will become the top of this corner.
Work 3 more trebles back into this corner space. You have now created the 1st corner of this round and increased at the same time. (That was easy and we didn’t feel a thing)
To make the sides, we work a 1 chain so that we will create a space for the next round.
We will now create the 2nd corner of the round and it is worked the same way as the 1st corner. Work 3 trebles into the next 3 chain space to create the first half of the corner.
3 chain to create the top of the corner.
Work 3 more trebles into the same space to complete the 2nd half of the corner.
1 chain to create the side space.
Work 3 trebles into the last 3 chain space from the previous round to start our 3rd corner.
3 chain to create the top of the corner.
3 treble into the same space to create the 3rd corner.
1 chain to create the 3rd side space.
Close the round as you did the 1st, by working a slip stitch in the 3rd chain of the 3 chain worked at the beginning.
To start the 3rd round, we need to get into that corner space as we did in round 2.
Work slips stitches into the top of the trebles next to the closing slip stitch and slip stitch into the corner space too.
Work a 3 chain to create our first treble of this round.
We are making a corner and increasing at the same time, so work a further 2 trebles into the same space.
3 chain to create the top of the corner.
3 treble into the same space to create the 1st corner.
For this 3rd and final round of the bunting, we will work in all the trebles from the side of the previous round.
Work 1 treble in each of the first 3 trebles along this side. They are the 3 trebles that made the 2nd half of the corner in the previous round. You may find the 1st treble is hiding behind the corner you have just created. To get to it, tease the corner stitches you have just worked out of the way to locate it.
Next work a treble in the 1 chain space stitch from the previous round.
You will see that you have 3 trebles left along this side. They are again corner stitches from the previous round. Work one treble into each of these.
You have now worked a total of 7 stitches (not including the corner) along this side and this will be the sequence for the other two sides.
Work 3 trebles into the next corner space to create the 2nd corner of this round.
3 chain to create the top of this corner.
3 more trebles into the same space will complete this 2nd corner.
Now work the 7 trebles as you did for the 1st side.
Complete the 3rd and final corner by working 3 trebles, 3 chains and 3 trebles all in the same space.
You will now have 7 trebles left along this side so work a treble into each of these.
To close this round, work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the 3 chain worked at the beginning.
Your 1st triangle is now done.
A top tip we have found, is to mark the row with the slip stitch join with a marker or piece of thread. This means that all your triangles will be attached the same way up. It’s not essential to do this as the triangles should be even anyway.
To finish, secure and sew in all the ends using a large eye wool darning needle.
As you are working with double strand of jute, you may find it easier to sew the strands individually and in different directions. They will be harder to spot and won’t leave thick rigid spots in your work.
Work the rest of your triangles in the same way. We were able to get 9 out of 2 balls of the jute, using a 10mm hook.
Now you have made your triangles, you can either bypass the tassles and go straight to joining further down.
We love to add a bit of bling and just because these are going in the garden, doesn’t mean we can’t add embellishments. It is a good idea to note, that although jute has been designed for the garden and plants, it will fade with time. Sunlight and rain will have an effect on it, so you may want to pack it away or take it down each time you use. This will prolong it’s life, but we think a bit of weathering adds to the look and we are happy to make more if it gets a bit worse for wear. When choosing the beads, a couple of things need to be considered. To thread the jute through, a large hole bead is best. Not essential and if there is a bead you have in mind, but it has a small hole, you could always use a thin bit of nylon thread or fishing line. The second, is the finish the bead has. It may not be suitable for outdoors. We know that in time our wooden beads will weather and maybe split, but again we are happy with that and want to enjoy their beauty.
The tassles are made using a strong piece or card.
The finished length of the tassle isn’t important and is a personal choice. A good length is between 10 and 12cm. We cut a piece of card 13cm in depth, that will allow enough room for trimming the tassle to length. The width of the card doesn’t really matter, as long as it is wider than the finished tassle. If you don’t have any old card, you could always use a book. Take care that it is an old one, as you don’t want to catch it with the scissors and ruin it.
Wrap the two strands of jute around the card about 10 times. We found that this gives a nice volume to the tassle. You can make it as thick as thin as you like. Just adjust the number of times you wrap the jute round.
To secure the strands, thread a length of jute under one side of the strands and pull to the top. Once cut you strands will be more or less even on both sides.
Secure this top strand with
Using a sharp pair of scissors (ADULT SUPERVISION IS REQUIRED HERE) cut the strands at the bottom. The opposite end to where you have just secured the strands.
Pull the strands down away from the top knot so that they are nice and smooth and even.
Wrap a length of jute around, near to the top and secure with a double knot.
You may find the strands you have tied round the top, have a mind of their own.
To get them to behave, thread them down through the centre of the tassle. The other strands will make sure they don’t step out of line.
Your tassle is now finished.
Thread your beads onto both strands of jute and pull down so they sit on the top knot.
To attach the tassle to the triangle, locate the bottom corner and tie it around this space.
Sew in any ends to tidy up the tassle.
Your triangle and tassle are now finished.
Complete the rest of the triangles in the same way.
We will crochet a cord and attach it to the bunting.
You could always thread a piece of ribbon or tape through the top row of trebles on the triangles. If you do this, make sure that it is suitable for outdoors. We are starting from the right hand side and will work a chain length. This is so that the bunting can be tied up. This length is a personal choice. You may only need a small length to attach on a hook, or you may need a longer length to wrap around a tree or bush. We worked 50 chains for ours. A smaller hook was used for this top strand. We wanted the stitches to be tighter, but you can use any size hook you want.
To start make a slip knot.
Work a length of chains, ours was 50 stitches long.
Once you have completed your chosen length, start attaching the triangles. Work a double crochet in the right hand top corner of one of the triangles.
Double crochet into the top of each of the trebles worked in the final round of the triangle, including the left hand corner of the triangle at the end of this row.
Again, the is another personal choice to consider. We found that 10 chains in between the triangles works well. If you want your triangles closer togther, work less chains in between and if you want them further apart, work more.
Once you have worked your chosen amount of “in between triangle chains”, add the second triangle as you did the first. 1 double crochet in the right hand top corner, 1 double crochet in the top of each of the top trebles and 1 double crochet in the left hand corner. Then work your in between chain and add the next triangle. Continue like this until you have added all the triangles. Once you have added the last one, work the same length chain you worked at the beginning to make the bunting even. Break off jute and pull through to finish.
You have now completed your bunting.
The next step is again a personal choice. We like the strengthen to cord so that the bunting holds its shape better.
Starting from the right (the same end you started before) insert your hook and work a 1 chain to secure the jute.
Work slip stitches into each of the chains and double crochet stitches that you worked in the previous row. This will neaten the stitches and make the tie much stronger.
It will also add stability to the top of the triangles.
Continue all the way along until you get to the end.
Cut jute and pull through to secure. You can either tie the ends together (as we did) and leave them so they look like a skinny tassle, or sew the ends back up along the chain.
This amazing jute is avaliable at Hobbycraft and you can find this and other colours in store.
We think you’ll agree that this bunting will make a fab addition to the garden this summer and have your neighbours peeping over the fence with envy.
So next time you’re at your local craft stores or garden centre, grab yourself some twine and get crocheting.
We love seeing your creations and makes, so don’t forget to tag us #CraftyCoCreations
The Crafty Co