Ribbed Crochet Hat tutorial

 

Don’t you just love Winter? Chilly days and a the great excuse to get cosy and warm inside. If you dare to venture outside and brave the cold, this hat is the perfect choice to keep you toasty. It’s so simple, works up super quick, and is stylish and practical.

So grab some wool and let’s get cracking.

The amount of yarn required depends on your tension and what hook size you use. For our hat we used a 7mm hook and it took approximately 130 grams of UK DK wool including a pom pom. We used two threads together to create a nice thick strand.

You can use a single strand if you prefer, but you will need a 4mm hook and work more stitches in your chain to start.

 

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO!

Abbreviations 

  • st = stitch
  • yo = yarn over
  • ch = chain (yo, pull through)
  • sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, yo, pull through both loops)
  • dc =   double crochet (insert hook, yo pull through, yo pull through both loops)

 

With a 7mm hook and double strand, make a slip knot and work a loose chain. Don’t pull the chains tight as you want to have a bit of give in your work. The amount of chains needed will vary as we all work to a different tension. We worked 29 chains and it measure approx 29cms. This is a good adult length for a hat. If however, you prefer a large turn up on your hat, work a few more chains.

When working in rows we work the 1st stitch of the row into the 2nd chain from the hook. If you were to work in the 1st chain, you would simply be working in the same stitch you created the last chain from.

Work a dc into that 2nd chain from the hook. You have completed your first stitch. To complete the row, work back along the chain with a dc into each of the stitches in the chain. Do not work a dc into the slip knot at the beginning of the row. It has a tendency to unravel if you do. Make a note of how many stitches you worked. ( We did 28 dc’s back along our chain) This will be the number you need to work in all the following rows. When first working in rows, it is a good idea to count the stitches in each row as you do them.  Once you understand how the first and last stitches are created, you should be able to continue without counting. Check every few rows that you still have the correct amount, just in case your stitch count is out.

You have now competed your foundation row. The rest of the hat is worked in the back loop only. This is what creates the rib effect. To start the next and following rows you will work your first stitch into the last stitch of the previous row. To do this, work a 1 chain and turn your work. This will allow you to work into the last stitch of the previous row. Skip the 1st st that is closest to the one on your hook and dc into the 2nd stitch from the hook as in the video below.

 

To complete the row, continue along each stitch, working 1 dc into the back loops only until you get the last stitch. To get a clean straight edge, don’t work in the back of the last stitch loop. Locate the horizontal stitch right a the end and work in there as the video below shows.

If you work each row in this way using these techniques you can see that it keeps the sides straight and even.

Contiune to work 1dc in the back loops only along the rows.

How many rows you do will depend how large the head is you are making the hat for. Keep offering the hat to your head. You want to finish with a row that leaves your working yarn at the opposite end to the slip knot worked at the beginning. As we have already determined the height of the hat (the amount of stitches in the starting chain) we measure the circumferance as follows. Place your work on your forehead with the side that has the working yarn at the bottom. Go round one side, along the back and back round the other side of your head. You want them to “just touch” at the forehead when a little stretch has been applied to them. This will ensure that the hat is snug.

Don’t worry, if when you have joined the hat, it’s not quite right.  It is very easy to unpick the joining row and add or undo a few rows to adjust.

Once you are happy with the size, fold your hat in half so that the working yarn is on top and to the right. The starting strand will be under to the left.

Your starting row will be behind. With your hook in place, insert into the top of the 1st stitch of the starting row at the back and work a sl st to join the pieces.

The neater you can work this stitch, the better the edge of the hat will be.

To complete the joining row, insert your hook into the top of the next stitch on the last row worked first. Then insert the hook into the opposite stitch on the beginning row and sl st them together.

Continue along the row using the same technique. (Pick up next stitch of last row worked first and then opposite stitch of first row and sl st them together)

As there are the same amount of stitches in the first and last rows, your stitches should line up. To close the round, once you have completed your last sl st, cut yarn and pull through to secure. Leave a long enough length so that you can close the top of the hat.

To form the hat shape, tie the two ends to secure.

Using a wool darning needle, thread the longest end through all the raised stitches as in the picture below. Place your darning needle from one side of the rib to the other.

Once you have sewn all the raised stitches, close the hole by carefully pulling the wool tight. Be firm, but don’t pull too hard or you will break the yarn.

As you have worked double strand throughout, the hat is nice and chunky. This does mean however that even with pulling the yarn tight, you will be left with a hole. Sew this up to complete the hat.

These hats are great as beanies, if you leave them as they are.

Nice and thick and cosy too.

Or how about adding a pom pom or making a striped hat. To do this work two rows of the same colour. A top tip is to work the starting chain and 1st row of dc in one colour, change and work 2 rows in each colour for the rest of the hat. The last row should be the same colour as the first row and once you have done your closing row, you will hardly see where you have joined it.

This stitch works for all kinds of yarn.

Make sure you use the correct hook for the weight of the wool and get creating. A top tip is to make the foundation chain longer than you need. That way you can work the first row back down the chain and try it against your head to see if it’s long enough.

They work up super fast and make great gifts. How about making a scarf to match.

These are even easier to do. Simply make a chain to the length that you want your scarf to be.  We used an ever larger hook and double strand, so that we got a more open weave look. Work in rows in the back loop only to create the rib and stop when the scarf is a wide as you want it to be. How about adding pom poms on each end. We’ve added one of each corner but you could gather the stitches up and sew one on or maybe a row of pom poms. The great thing is…….. the choice is yours

If you fancy adding a fur pom pom, check out our tutorial here

 

We love seeing your creations and makes, so don’t forget to tag us #CraftyCoCreations

Happy crocheting

The Crafty Co

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