How to: crochet in Rounds


Learning to crochet in rounds can be a bit daunting and people always ask me: why does their circle curl up or turn into a funny shape?
This can be due to a couple of things. If you find that it doesn’t look round, it’s just a case of making sure your increase doesn’t always fall in the same place on each round.
For work that is curling, it could be your tension. It is more than likely going to be that you haven’t got the right amount of increases in the round.

As a rule, I personally like to work in rounds that increase by 6 each time.

I find it gives me a nice flat circle and is easy to work out the increases.

If possible, always use a stitch marker. Then if the doorbell or the phone rings, you can just unpick back to the marker and won’t have to start again.
Also, my logic for working in rounds, means I always work the round in six segments.
This means when I get back to the stitch marker I know I am back to the start. 
I work in UK terms Double Crochet throughout.

Begin with 6 dc in my first round.

I adopt the magic ring method, but you could also use the chain method to make your starter ring.
Starting with 6dc means that each of the following rounds will have an increase of 6 stitches.
In the pic below you can see that I need to work 2 double crochets into each of my starting 6 stitches and once I have reached the stitch marker I have 12 stitches.

Next our increase of 6 means we will go from 12 to 18 stitches.

To work out where we need to increase we use our 6 times table (because we want to increase by 6).
We have 12 stitches at the moment in our round, so 12 divided by 6 = 2.
Therefore we need to increase every 2nd stitch.
I like to increase in the first stitch as it hides the transition from the previous round.
The sequence for this round is (2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc) and in total you will do this 6 times.
This is where I now like to work in sixes as I am going round.
It doesn’t really matter for the first few rounds, but once your work grows and you are working with a lot of stitches, it makes it much easier to think of the round as six segments.

Next our increase of 6 means we will go from 18 to 24 stitches.

18 divided by 6 = 3 so we need to increase every 3rd stitch. The sequence for this round is (2dc into next stitch, 1dc,1dc) six times.
Remember to keep moving your stitch marker into the first stitch of the round.

Next our increase of 6 means we will go from 24 to 30 stitches.

24 divided by 6 = 4 so we need to increase every 4th stitch.
This increase is the last one where I increase at the beginning of each sequence, as this is where your project starts to take on the shape of a hexagon.
This is because you are increasing each round in the same place every time, so your work will naturally have sides and not be round.
The sequence for this round is (2dc into next stitch, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) six times.
This next part may sound confusing but once you have got your head round it, this is how you will do every other round.

As you will see below, I have broken the round into 6 segments.

This round starts with 30 stitches so 30 divided by 6 = 5.
You now need to think of the round as 6 segments of 5 stitches and we need to increase one stitch in each of those six segments so that 5 stitches become 6.
Hope that makes sense so far 🙂
I like to do the increase in the middle stitch, so, if I increase in the 3rd stitch of each of the six segments, then I will have 2 stitches each side to make it look nice and even.
The sequence for this row in each of the segments will be (1dc, 1dc, 2dc into next stitch, 1dc, 1dc).
By the end of the round my 5 stitches have increased to 6 in each segment.

I now have 36 stitches and 36 divided by 6 = 6

When I do this calculation and the answer is an even number (in this case 6), that’s when I increase at the beginning of each segment.
6 stitches will turn into 7, so I work the sequence (2dc into next stitch, 1dc,1dc,1dc,1dc,1dc).
If you count to total number of stitches who now have in the sequence you will count 7.
So, you know that you are on the right track.

You will now have 42 stitches so 42 divided by 6 = 7

As the number is odd you will now do the increase on the middle stitch of the segment like we did two rows before.
The middle stitch will be stitch 4. So, you do your increase in that stitch and you will have 3 stitches each side of the increase

For the start of the next round you will have 48 stitches and 48 divided by 6 = 8

So as it’s an even number, we do the increase at the beginning of each segment.
Just a quick point on how to count the stitches in each segment as you are working in the round.
If for example I have 96 stitches at the start of my round, 96 divided by 6 = 16.
Remember even numbers means you do the increase at the start of the segment.
So I would do the 2 dc into the first stitch and then count 15 more and do this for all of the 6 segments.

The next round would start with a 17 st sequence

Being an odd number I need to increase in the middle stitch.
To find this add 1 to the starting number (17 for this round) and divide by 2, which is 9 so you will do your increase on stitch 9.
So work 8 dc’s then 2dc’s into stitch 9 and then 8 more and start the sequence again.
That means if you start with a 19 st sequence 19 + 1 = 20 and 20 divided by 2 = 10.
Work 9 dc’s, 2dc’s into stitch 10 and then work 9 more for that sequence.
This does sound really complicated, but once you have got it, you’ll never look back
Just continue with this method and you can keep going and going and going and your work will stay beautifully round.

The picture above shows the increases done in the middle of the sequences on every other row.
The picture below shows how it would look if you did your increase in the same place every time.
Perfect though if you would like to make hexagons.

Below is a chart for a 20 round pattern.

If you continue working on the same theory you could go on forever and make a huge circle
Working with UK trebles is great when you want your project to grow quicker.
You will see from the chart below, that the method is the same.
But, instead of working 6 stitches into the ring, we start with 12 trebles (1st treble of each round is a 3 chain).
This means that we will increase 12 stitches in each round, as we need to allow for the extra height that working with trebles create.
So the sequence is repeated 12 times and not 6.
To finish off each round, work a slip stitch into the top (3rd chain stitch) of the 1st treble created at the beginning of the round.
To start the next round, slip stitch into the next space and work a 3 chain to make your first treble.
Doing a slip stitch will center the stem of the 3 chain and make you work look neat and more professional.

Here are some examples of circles worked in different ways:

When working a more open weave circle, we create holes by working chains.
This means, however, that we only need 6 increases in each round, to allow for this, and not the 12 that the above chart shows when working in trebles
The green circle below, has 6 increases in each round but has 2 chains after each treble.
So as the holes are bigger, we need to allow for this by starting the circle in a slightly different way.

 Magic Ring

Chain 5 (counts as 1st treble and 2ch), (1tr, 2ch) five times more and close the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the 5 chain worked at the beginning.
You can now follow the sequence for the 6 stitch increase chart for the dc stitch, but replace each dc stitch with (1tr, 2ch).
For example: the 2nd round says to work 2dc into each stitch, but you would work (1tr, 2ch, 1tr, 2ch) into each stitch.
Continue the circle as per the chart.  Remember, to get the height when working in trebles we need to do a 5 chain at the start of each round (counts as 1tr and 2chains).

The pink circle has only 1ch after the treble, making the holes slightly smaller. It is worked as the first chart that we use for dc, apart from the first row.

Magic Ring

start with a 4ch, (counts as 1st treble and a 1ch,) then work (1tr, 1ch) 11 times more into the ring.
Close the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the 4 chain worked at the beginning. (12sts)
 You now have 12 stitches in the round. So, you continue from round 3 as you would for the 6 increase chart, working 1 treble and 1ch for each stitch in the sequence.
For example round 3 for the first chart is (2dc, 1dc) six times so you would work (1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1ch in the same stitch, then 1tr 1ch) 6 times (18sts)
Remember the first treble of each round will be made up of a 4 chain to allow for the 1ch after the treble.
Just continue the circle using the 1st chart as a guide.
These make great bases for duffle bags or string effect tote bags.

This method also works for clusters shown in the red circle below:

I worked the same sequence as the dc chart but each dc stitch was replaced by a 3 treble cluster and 1ch.

This circle, in particular, is great for a base to a yoga mat bag as it is a nice design and fairly close weave. This means it will keep its shape better

When working in rounds, if you follow the charts above, you will notice that we increase in the first part of each segment up to 5 stitches in each segment.

This will make the circle appear as a hexagon, but don’t worry as when you work the 6 stitch sequence, it will magically turn into a circle.

This is the 5 stitch sequence round and looks like a hexagon
One more round though and as the increase has been done in the middle of the segment, it has magically turned into a circle
I hope you have fun trying out these methods and let me know if you need any help at all
Happy Crocheting
The Crafty Co

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